However, New Orleans was different. Walking onto Canal Street is like stepping into a never-ending party. Day and night, streets are filled with people singing, eating, dancing, and just enjoying life in general. You can't help but crack a small smile when you pass Cafe du Monde, the smell of freshly cooked beignets topped with powdered sugar filling your nostrils. The people are the same way, with a gaiety that is contagious.
For me, I fell in love with "New Awlins" when I dragged my family to a hole in the wall record store. Ella Fitzgerald's Dream a Little Dream of Me was playing and indeed, the store was like a dream; for rows and rows of shelves were filled with old vinyl records, walls plastered with posters of Louis Armstrong, Frank Sinatra, and many other jazz icons. I spent hours there, gawking at various old vinyl covers. I bonded with the store owners over chickory coffee and they exposed me to tons of other jazz artists. From that day on, my knowledge and appreciation of jazz had increased exponentially.
But the dream was abruptly broken when I boarded a bus tour. We passed neighbourhoods with houses that were destroyed: entire roofs ripped off, smashed windows, and houses that were just flattened. Cemeteries that continued as far as the eye could see rolled by. It seemed that these places never left 2005, unable to recover from the terror of Hurricane Katrina. I noticed a side of New Orleans that I will never forget. But then I saw a construction crew lifting up the wall of an entire house. Repairs were in process.
As we started heading back, I heard jazz ensembles warming up for the evening crowd. I realized something: New Orleans wasn't stuck in 2005, it moved forward, with a smile on its face, just like its inhabitants. People from New Orleans were so strong that not even a hurricane could diminish their spirits. The jazz kept on playing.
A typical jazz ensemble
Jackson Square in the French Quarter
The backyard of an old plantation estate